Letter to my brother Bob

Aye Brudduh,
Great to see you today too. I want to tell you about my day and then I'm gonna post it on my blog, because it was pretty surreal and made me so appreciative of how precious every minute of life is.

This morning I went to the bank to open up a savings account then road a few more blocks to the beach to swim in the ocean and lay around in the shade of a palm tree with Marisa. Then I find out my friend Kekoa wants to drive to the North Shore to surf. He agrees to pick me up in 30 minutes.

So we start riding home and as we are riding out of the beach park we see this man on a single monkey/pull up bar doing the gymnast maneuver when you flip around the the bar head over heals.

He does it once and I think to myself, "damn I can hardly do that trick. I almost always wipe out when I try that"
He does it again, and again fast, then we watch him gain momentum to do it again even faster. Then he slips and falls head first and ends up on his back.

At first I'm like "Holy shit, that was funny" This all happened in less than 15 seconds so far.
And now were about 25 ft away from him. I notice that the man is over 60 years old. Then a couple of people rush to him.

A closer look at his shaved head and I notice a 4 inch cut on the side of his head.
Blood starts pumping out at the pace of his heart beat. Marisa takes the towel from around my waste and gives it to the citizen overseeing him.
Maybe 1 minute an 20 seconds have passed. Maybe less.
The man doesn't talk for at least a minute. Marisa calls 911.
I'm feeling nauseous. I wait a few minutes and Marisa tells me to leave because Kekoa will be picking me up soon and I still have a 15 minute bike ride home.
I'm about to go surf and this man might die from one slip.

I ride home pretty scared thinking how my life can end if I run through another red light on my bike..
and how I can hurt a pedestrian if I ride carelessly. I was like I gotta call up Bob and tell him that I love him.

So I love you dude.

So I end up going to North Shore and surf the cloudy late afternoon at the same spot I paddled out with you and Marisa at Haleiwa... The only thing that was different is that it wasn't 1ft, but 6 to 8ft Hawaiian.
I swear, some of faces were over 20ft. I dropped in on some 15ft+ faces.
The other set waves breaking farther outside were almost scaring me, and the dudes dropping in were fully handling with style hitting the lip 15ft up and then getting in the tube.
It was sick. I was happy to get a few bigger than medium sized waves in the rain all the way in to shore.

Then I came home and cooked dinner for Marisa by 8:30pm.

That was my day.
I love you bro.
Lets stay in touch.
I had a great time with you and Gretchin and LIna.
I want to make it a regular thing that we visit each other often... at least a couple of times a year,
I'm gonna work hard to make it happen.
Maybe we meet at other destinations in the world.
Talk soon.
-Manny