Surf Wisdom : Look to the Horizon

When the waves are crankin', always keep your eye on the horizon out to sea.
Never turn your back to the ocean for too long.
You might miss out on a wave, or worse get pounded.

It's always good to see opportunities coming in advance
so you can position yourself in the right spot to take advantage of it.
The farther off you see it, the more time you have to prepare.
It will almost always take effort to catch.

Weekend Recap

Went to North Shore Saturday
Marisa bought a hat
Caught good waves
Aaron and wife Katy came to surf
SJ and Dan too.
Then we went to dinner
with Aaron and Katy at Cholos

Sunday was sleep with baby Hayden on my chest
Til 4:30pm
then wake to skate the skatepark
home
shower
Then to Anna Bananas for a couple of beers and a game of pool with Duncan
to grocery store by 8pm
for some bananas, tofu, carrots, broc, ice cream and
some flowers for Marisa.

Inspiration

Big ups to John Cardiel
One Gnarly Dude.
Who has made the hardest stunts with such beautiful gnar!
Holy fuck.
making everything else in life seem easy.
So Rad.
Thanks John!
you can watch the whole movie on Netflicks.

Killing time

Excersize

Secrets

Yesterday on Tantalus

Big leaves
E-dog behind the wheels

One Slide Wipe Out

Went down Tantalus Mountain on the fresh paved smooth buttery road.
The butter can bite and burn.

I looked behind me as i was sliding on my ass and saw my
pants turning into mini cotton balls flying in the wind.
All limbs in tact.
Mild burn on right cheek.
All G.
And didn't scathe my new favorite T-shirt.