Monday, May 17, 2010

Roll Skateboards Sidewalk Surf.mov

Saturday one on one

My favorite surf break gives it up to a lot of dudes
including me.
But this saturday I had her all to myself
and she got friskier than I expected.
No one was around to see, but me.
She layed it all out and let me do whatever I want.
I am happy to say that I got to smack the lip.
and I surfed without a leash...
feel more free.
I was stoked
Surfed till I was worn out.
But the waves kept coming.
I had to eventually paddle in to my wife and kid.
Good times.

Thursday, April 22, 2010

Wednesday Dawn Patrol Report

This morning went for usual Wednesday early surf sesh.
6am pulled up to Diamond Head.
Not many people out... Maybe 4 guys.
Kinda shitty conditions.
Was about to go home and get creative, but Uncle Eddie
pulled up. I said I'll paddle out if you paddle out.

He said I'm going just for an hour.
I gotta try my new board.

We paddled out to Light House.
It was just him and I.
No one came out... from beginning to end.

We caught some fun ones.
I caught a good one and screamed like a girl.
It was worth it....
We talked about having a wife and family...
He's been married for 25 years and has 3 kids.
a 25 year old, 19, and 17.
He said he gave his wife plenty of reasons to leave him, but
"She believed in me"
Every time I see Eddie, he's got a new board and is trying to sell one...
I just noticed that.



Monday, March 29, 2010

Last Week Recap

Haven't written in a long time.
Last week was a big South Swell.
Surfed twice last Sunday.
Surfed Sleepy Hallows with friend Aaron that morning.
He set up for a barrel into a huge close out.
I was on the inside,
and saw him, then looked up and the wave was three times as tall as he was.

I was like "HOLY FU#%!"
He realized it was just a huge close out.
then dove of his board and the lip came crashing down on his head and shoulder.

I thought we were gonna paddle in after that one.
I screamed WOOOOH! when I saw his face.
He smiled and screamed back.
and turned around immediately to paddle for more.
He's rad. He drops in deep a lot.
Far enough where it looks like he's not gonna make it...
and usually makes it every time. Gnarly.

We caught a bunch of waves.
mostly close-outs but a some make-able.
I went over the falls twice on 15ft faces (6ft Hawaiiian scale)
but somehow the South side swells are a little more forgiving than North Shore... or South shore spots like Browns...
My last wave I caught from Sleepy's all the way to 25 yards away from the reef pole at the end of Suicides.

When the waves get big, distances shrink it seems.
rips pull you all over the place.
I saw Aaron so far away, I paddled hard toward him and all of a sudden I was like 5ft away
from him.

Later in the day we surfed closer to Waikiki where the waves were holding up better.
Rice Bowls to past Publics were holding up real good.

I paddled out with Aaron, Luke and Scratch from Kaimana beach to Rice Bowls. Pretty far paddle.
Aaron got the barrel of his life at Rice Bowls, so he said.
I believe him. I got the wave right after him and pulled up seconds after his ride,
and he sounded like a different person.
He was all, "Fuck Manny!" in a deep unfamiliar voice!
I said "what happened?"
I just got the BARREL OF MY LIFE.
The lip at Rice Bowls throws far when it gets 4-6ft and bigger.
You can totally stand up inside and spread your arms out like wings
and still be inside the barrel.
He dropped into a 6 footer (Hawaiian Scale)... 15ft plus- face.

I didn't get tubed that time, but almost.

An intense moment went like this...

I dropped into a set wave. Around a 15ft face too....
as I was dropping in, one of the dudes paddling back
yells at me "JUST WAIT BRO! JUST WAIT!
The wave started dieing out, so I cut back into the soup.
then all of a sudden the wave double up...
the whole flat front of the wave came sucking in.
As if the wave was sucking in its gut.
The flatness sucked up into a heaving wall and all
of a sudden I'm going mach speed down the line into an eventual close out.
but the seeing the wave do what it did blew my mind when it happened.
My face turned all mean with a hint of smile at the site... as I screamed WOOOOHOLY #$%#$!
I dove through the face and made it through without going over the falls which was
good.

Then we paddled back over towards Kaimana and caught a few more waves at Old Mans.
It was good to surf all together with Luke, Scratch (Mathias), and Aaron at Old Mans.
the small crowd at Rice Bowls was intense. Old Man's was a lot more mellow.
But the sets were coming in well over head... and lining up.

My last wave, I caught from Old Mans past the wind-sock into the inside reef at Castles.
It connected. I was done riding as I past the wind-sock but the wave just kept on going.
So I was like.... "OK"
There was a heavy rip that was going towards Publics.
and the paddle back towards the wind-sock and channel seemed endless.
Apparently the life guards were pulling people out of there non-stop with the wave-runners.

I made it back more tired than I ever was.
All I kept thinking was a Beer and a Burger awaits me...
A Beer and a Burger... and a hot dog.
and a Beer.

I never wanted a Beer and Burger so much since getting out of a wood shop with Jimmy Lynch
on a Friday in Brooklyn after a long saw dusty week when we invented the "Brooklyn All-Star" rum drink at some bar that doesn't exist anymore on Bedford Ave.
But that's another story I must tell another time.

Signing off.
Manny Skate da Surfa Artist.


Saturday, February 27, 2010

Honolulu Tsunami

False alarm. Went to the grocery store at 6am and spent $160+ on water and supplies....
Gonna return the water and canned supplies to get some of my money back.

The sirens put a serious vibe in the air.

I was prepared after being in NYC for 911 and the Black Out.

Had 6 friends come over.
We walked over to a neighboring building rooftop to see the tsunami hit,
but nothing ever came.
then we came back to my house to BBQ and drink beers.

Then went to Diamond Head to surf.
Caught some fun waves.
The Chile earthquake brought some juice.
Hope there's still waves tomorrow.
-Manny

Sunday, February 14, 2010

Realization

Ok lets say you are the best skater in the world and get a million dollars a year to skate...

what are you gonna do when you get that million?
Help others and what?

Skate. Don't abandon the thing that got you to where you are.

tales of a Honolulu Homeboy

drinking beers and skating is alot more crucial than drinking beers and surfing.
in the former, you are paying with blood or broken bones.

Friday, February 12, 2010

Tales of a Honolulu Homeboy

It was a combination of no wind, a setting sun, over 10 years of surf and skate experience, and a little bit of magic that made Johnny surf the most stylish line he had ever drawn in his entire life. The fact that his friends were watching as they paddled back to the line-up didn't hurt. Johnny loved witnessing his homies catch good waves. But this time it was his time to shine. And shine he did. With his friends in the corner of his eye he caught the next wave and dropped in with a smile. He did the tic-tac shuffle across the wave and danced into a cutback to set himself up for another round with the lip. At first sight, it looked like Johnny was break-dancing on water.

All of his positive energy culminated on that one ride.It would be tough to get in any more turns on such a modest yet gorgeous wave...
He surfed with ease, speed, and grace... Aloha.

Friday, January 22, 2010

Dynamic Movement

The key to a youthful and alert spirit is dynamic movement
in both the Body and MInd. In the Body, movement beyond up and down and side to side, but all the diagonals to upside down.
In the mind... feeding it concepts
and filling it with humor and connecting thoughts from past, present moment, future, and
unknown.

Dynamic Movement will keep you healthy all around.
There are vehicles and tools for easy access to Dynamic Movement.
A skateboard put you in millions of spaces in one linear back to back moment.
Good rhythmic music is a great guide for the body to bounce to
for your body to dance
and great lyrics activate the mind even more
make your mind dance.

Dynamic Movement by any means necessary.

Dawn Patrol Drama

Wednesday, January 20, 2010

Wednesday Dawn Patrol Drama: Smacking Reef

Today I did my usual Wednesday Dawn Patrol"
Woke at 5:turtles.
left for North Shore at 6.
arrived 6:45.
Paddled out with John Esguerra.
Waves were beautiful yet kinda shitty.
caught two good waves.
It was like getting 6 seconds with a naked hot chick...
(I know that's some incriminating shit, especially cuz I'm married, but hey, I'm theoretically speaking)
Besides those two waves, I waited a lot.
I decided to sit inside closer to the impact zone and got caught inside a few times.
had to abandon ship and dive deep to avoid mini freak sets and heavy lips to the head.
not too big... but a little big for a townie.

Paddled back out a few more times.
and waited longer.
Until I decided to drop in no matter what on the next set.
I dropped into pretty much a close out and pearled (nose dived) and went flying to the bottom
of the transition and got sucked up and back over, then
got drilled straight to the bottom and smacked my knee on the reef.
I think it helped that I practiced holding my breath for almost a minute on the drive up.
Warmed up my lungs with hot tea and helped them stretch bigger for deeper breaths.

I wasn't sure if my knee exploded. It stung.
when I came up. I only saw a little blood thankfully,
blood next to the almost healed wound from the last time I hit reef on the same knee.
very minor scrape, but painful for this Filipino Pretty Boy.
Let's see if I can draw an accurate cartoon of my wipeout tonight.
til then.
-Mandog

Sunday, January 17, 2010

Surf Sunday


Woke up thinking...
Sometimes its better to go the long way.

Then spent the morning with Ethan brainstorming over coffee.
then came home at 1pm to eat with Marisa.
Me and Hayden took photos of my favorite shirts while she cooked.
Then drove to West Side.
Ma‘ile Point.
There was a surf contest there, So I surfed another zone.
Marisa and Hayden sat on shore and watched the sunset.
We parked at Mathias's (Scratch's) house. He lives at the break.
Nice to get out of the ocean into a hot shower,
His girlfriend Melinda's Mom cooked filipino food (Sinigang)
and they asked us to stay for dinner.
didn't have to twist my arm.

So we ate and chilled and talked until about 8:30.
Good times.

Marisa and I watched Scratch paddle into big set wave..
15ft face and ride the face for a long time.
Always good to witness your homie catch a rad wave.

-Hayden crashed hard when we got home.
-Movie time with wifey Marisa next before bed.

Saturday rant



Good day.
Sometimes i find my days are roll best when I have no plan..
But I am usually guaranteed a good day if I envision it the night before.
and make a dream list and go for it.

if kind of like closing your eyes and saying I'm gonna do this.
and then do it...
as opposed to randomly do stuff.

I like my actions to culminate into something more grand....
where the sum is more than the parts....

Not always however...
sometimes Its fun to just go with the wind...
but
I'm digging the planning these days.
like I'm gonna put red paint here
and doing it.

Tuesday, January 12, 2010

Invention of the Nose-Slide Draft 1

UP LATE- My brain is oozing out ideas and stories...
I think to myself who wants to hear my story...
Hey my story is his story
A piece of history
Skate History.

I've been known to talk about myself
so I'm gonna roll with it.

Invention of the Nose-Slide.
A skateboarders "Street-Skate History" of the world
By Manny Pangilinan

I could start way back when I was 6 or 7 years old, in Redondo Beach California when I started pushing on my knee
while my dad would jog the bike path, or when me and my neighborhood boys woudl race down the hills on our buts
outside our houses, in Suffern, New York. That might bore you. Maybe not. Maybe I'lll save that for later.

For our Attention Deficit Disorders and short blog reading spans,
It all started when I met a skateboarder named Jeff Pang.
Lets go back to 1989 on the island of Manhattan, aka New York City.
At a notorious skate spot called the Brooklyn Banks
under an off ramp of the Brooklyn Bridge.

At this point in "Skate History" The Brooklyn Banks was the Skate Meccas in the North Eastern United States
The other Meccas on the West coast were The Embarcadero in San Francisco, Venice Beach in Los Angeles,
There were plenty of of other skateboard spots around the country, a mecca was where sometimes hundreds of
skateboarders would congregate not over a year, month, or weeks time... I'm talkin' congregate in one day at the same time.

If my memory is correct, most of us called them simply, "The Banks"
The cool thing about The Banks is that it spanned the area of possibly two football fields.
And it could hold that many skaters at one time...
on a summer day or weekend, the banks with no doubt see over a hundred skaters.

In that one area there were small banks, big banks curbs, small curbs big curbs, manual joints, ledges, benches, double sided rail-slide curbs, Ledges with double sided curb on top, steps, 9 steps hand rail...

The days when the Banks saw over 2 hundred or more skaters at a time was during the famous
Brooklyn Banks Skate Contests. This of course is where everyone would show off their latest moves.
Where Skate Posses would show off there stuff as a group. Each posse usually had some kind of similar style or characteristic.
Sometimes that characteristic was purely talent or skill, or gnar, or gayness... LOL.
Posses of kids from Queens, Posses from Brooklyn, The Bronx, Long Island, Rockland, Jersey, Conneticut, Boston,
The list goes on... Some of those Posses consisted of skaters from many different regions...

The Shut Posse was probably the most bad ass.

Before I go any further, there was plenty of skateboarding in NYC and around the world before this, but this is when street skating blew up and this is the area in history we're covering...
because you can't tell it all in one time... in one book.

Ok. So where was I?

Oh yeah this Posse and that Posse.
O shit its 2:48 am Honolulu, Hawaii time.
Lets see if I can wrap this up in ten Minutes.

Anyway, During a banks contest was where everyone showed off their new and latest tricks.
If one kid did a wally off a corner of a curb one contest, others would do it next contest.

If a kid did a Sheffey pop during one contest,
then you wish you could do a Sheffey pop
during the next contest. LOL.

Well one mornning during a rainy day in 1989 or 90,
before there were double sided kick-tails,
when there was a smaller nose than tail.
I was skating the rain protected curbs of the Banks

It was a time when the latest curb tricks were a tail slide variations.

Jeff was good at everything...
Even early in the morning...
that one rainy morning or early afternoon I was too lazy to compete
with Jeff's tailslide skills...of course the night before I was thinking of
how I can one-up Jeff... that was hard thinking back, because he was probably one of the best,
if not the best street skater in NYC at the time.

So in a dream I thought oh I got the easiest trick that will blow his mind.
Remember most skateboards didn't have big noses at the time.
After Jeff did probably a long frontside tailslide to revert,
I turned my board backwards with the tail going forward and rode backside to a the curb
and did slid on the what would be the nose. I don't think I had a name for it right away,
I think in a week or two I got a board with a bigger nose and started doing them off the nose,
and called them the nose-slide.

Anyway that day I did every combo: Noseslide revert, Noseslide to shovit, Frontside, Backside.
I started doing them at the curbs around the banks..
A few weeks later I taught one of the Shut Skaters Felix Argueris,

Next thing as usual, everyone is doing a nose-slide during their contest run at the next Contest.

The cool thing about a nose-slide is that it is probably one of the easiest tricks to learn...

The next summer I went to California as usual to visit family and skate.
I started ollieing to nose on a picnic bench at a school yard in San Diego out of boredom after a long day of skating.
Then it hit me I'll ride up and ollie to nose and slide...
ride up frontside and slide.

Then I a week later I did it at Venice Beach Mecca in front of one of the Alva boys, John Thomas on the ledge behind the famous Venice beach wall. He saw me and asked... "Aye what the fuck was that, and I said a Backside Nose-Slide Revert.

I called it a Backside because I was sliding with my back facing the direction I was sliding... however some call this "Frontside"
because you approach the ledge with it facing your front.

Anyway thus the Ollie Nose-Slide was born, because like the Brooklyn Banks, if you do something at Venice Beach.
The whole West Coast is gonna know about it.

That's my Nose-Slide Story.
3:18 AM.
Time to sleep.
Gotta catch a Dawn Patrol with my homeboy John Esguerra at 6:30.
or as they say on the islands 6 turtles.
Signing off,
Manny Skate