Today I did my usual Wednesday Dawn Patrol"
Woke at 5:turtles.
left for North Shore at 6.
arrived 6:45.
Paddled out with John Esguerra.
Waves were beautiful yet kinda shitty.
caught two good waves.
It was like getting 6 seconds with a naked hot chick...
(I know that's some incriminating shit, especially cuz I'm married, but hey, I'm theoretically speaking)
Besides those two waves, I waited a lot.
I decided to sit inside closer to the impact zone and got caught inside a few times.
had to abandon ship and dive deep to avoid mini freak sets and heavy lips to the head.
not too big... but a little big for a townie.
Paddled back out a few more times.
and waited longer.
Until I decided to drop in no matter what on the next set.
I dropped into pretty much a close out and pearled (nose dived) and went flying to the bottom
of the transition and got sucked up and back over, then
got drilled straight to the bottom and smacked my knee on the reef.
I think it helped that I practiced holding my breath for almost a minute on the drive up.
Warmed up my lungs with hot tea and helped them stretch bigger for deeper breaths.
I wasn't sure if my knee exploded. It stung.
when I came up. I only saw a little blood thankfully,
blood next to the almost healed wound from the last time I hit reef on the same knee.
very minor scrape, but painful for this Filipino Pretty Boy.
Let's see if I can draw an accurate cartoon of my wipeout tonight.
til then.
-Mandog
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