Skate.MOV

Wednesday Dawn Patrol Report

This morning went for usual Wednesday early surf sesh.

6am pulled up to Diamond Head.

Not many people out... Maybe 4 guys.

Kinda shitty conditions.

Was about to go home and get creative, but Uncle Eddie

pulled up. I said I'll paddle out if you paddle out.

He said I'm going just for an hour.

I gotta try my new board.

We paddled out to Light House.

It was just him and I.

No one came out... from beginning to end.

We caught some fun ones.

I caught a good one and screamed like a girl.

It was worth it....

We talked about having a wife and family...

He's been married for 25 years and has 3 kids.

a 25 year old, 19, and 17.

He said he gave his wife plenty of reasons to leave him, but

"She believed in me"

Every time I see Eddie, he's got a new board and is trying to sell one...

I just noticed that.