White Water, Lips, and Curls: an elongated surf moment

I dropped into the wave and everything turned silent. The water was clear and I saw a stray piece of seaweed floating. Time slowed down as wave, actions, and desires melted together into one moment stretched. I dragged my hand in the curl and my face in the lip. The sun shined bright. Up and down the wave I went all the way to the inner reef stoked. I began to paddle back out only to get stuck inside. I was in the zone of white water, lips and curls. The white wash museum. As the outside sets came pounding, I relaxed safe inside and admired the infinite curvilinear forms and movements of white wash. As the sets subsided, I paddled back out and observed a similar wave to my last. I called it the, "Mini Nugget Super-Connector ". It peeled long and clean. The Mini Nugget Super-Connector comes hidden between Big Bullies. The cool guy slick wave. But that's another short story description I'll save for another time.
-Manny Aloha