Sometimes you get junk and my Wednesday

Last night I got my 2 surfboards ready and some gear for a dawn patrol.
I picked up my friend Luke at 5:45am. We drove to the North Shore 40 minutes away.
Only to find big junkie waves. We drove to almost every spot in the NS. All the same junk.
We ended up taking a nap in the car and then going to breakfast. We talked about a zine we will be putting together.

I was back in town by 11am. Dropped off Luke and picked up photographer Chris McDonough and shot photos until 5pm for the Outdoor issue of the Honolulu Weekly. I'll post a photo as soon as I get them tomorrow. It's gonna be me on the cover as requested by the editor Ragnar Carlson. Shooting photos can be harder than you think. You have to rely on sunlight, available props, weather, natural elements like mosquitoes and steep cliffs, and the trigger finger of a photographer who you hope has adequate technical skills to produce a successful image... and model... fuck.

I drove Chris to his house by 6pm to view and select the best photos. My car broke down at his house. Although he offered to give me a spare 91' Nissan in his garage for free. Lets see if that happens.
I didn't get out of his house until 8:30. He drove me home.
My girlfriend thought I was coming home at 6pm. She was on the verge of pissed. but not.
Its 12:22am can't sleep.

The cool thing about an illustration is that the image is at the fingertips of an illustrator. A much more controlled environment.

Photographs require working with more variables.
Example cover shots ASAP

Result of a Mosh Pit

Somehow I got a foot print or two on the head the other night in the pit.
People rockin' the elbows a little too hard these days... Some new school shit.
Oh well... times change.
Crowd surfin' still works.
Got out walkin' with no black eyes.
Lost a pound of sweat.
Life is good.

Coincidental Orange Moment

Worked all day, so I'll note a memory from last month.
Randomly synchronized orange head gear.

Sunday Surf

Takin' a piss break in the tall grass of the north shore of Oahu on the way back to Honolulu after a rad day of surf with friends and beers inspired me to take a note for the blog. Caught some of the best waves today in my life. When I told my girlfriend she said, "that's what you always say". Sometimes life just gets better and better. Until you or some friend or family member gets ill.
After surfing I shot the shit with Duncan and John in the parking lot over a cigarette and coffee that I brought in a thermos.
Then a friend Marlys pulled up on her scooter. So we went to the store and picked up a 12 pack and went over to her house and kicked it some more with her roommates. Back to town by 9:30. Then went to friend Ethan's house to till 12 am.
Then home to sleep.

Make a joke n jump off da boat

White Water, Lips, and Curls: an elongated surf moment

I dropped into the wave and everything turned silent. The water was clear and I saw a stray piece of seaweed floating. Time slowed down as wave, actions, and desires melted together into one moment stretched. I dragged my hand in the curl and my face in the lip. The sun shined bright. Up and down the wave I went all the way to the inner reef stoked. I began to paddle back out only to get stuck inside. I was in the zone of white water, lips and curls. The white wash museum. As the outside sets came pounding, I relaxed safe inside and admired the infinite curvilinear forms and movements of white wash. As the sets subsided, I paddled back out and observed a similar wave to my last. I called it the, "Mini Nugget Super-Connector ". It peeled long and clean. The Mini Nugget Super-Connector comes hidden between Big Bullies. The cool guy slick wave. But that's another short story description I'll save for another time.
-Manny Aloha