Uncle Outside

I surfed "Lighthouse" yesterday morning. It's one of the high performance waves on the South Shore.
Every spot of course has it's regulars. At Lighthouse there's this one Uncle who sits the farthest outside waiting for only the big set waves. From further inside where most sit, Uncle sounds like he's speaking in tongues...mumbling.
He'll be like, "Ober der inside yeah!... oops maybe not. Hmmm. Maybe... mmmm..No. Sorry eh!" or" Der inside! Going brah!"

Then, Uh Oh! Here dey come (talking about approaching waves in the far distance.) "Here we go, ha ha ha grrrrrhhm. Yah!" as he paddles to into position. He'll be what looks like just a little too far inside where the wave is gonna crash on his back... And the wave does just that. He'll do the latest of late take-offs. The wave jacks up. the lip crashes on his back as he is saying, "Uh. Oh." under his breath and make the drop somehow. Any second later a total wipeout. then he'll go left sometimes instead of right (the way the wave is known for breaking).

Most people think longboarders are not welcome at lighthouse.
But the way Uncles rides, he is an obvious exception.

If you paddle next to him, you realize that it is not the sound of waves and distance that muffles his voice, but he actually speaks that way, in grunts... but I totally understand him... Probably because I speak like him as well at times like when I speak to my lady Marisa. She can't stand it. But somehow it makes sense to me.... or isn't worth articulating.

Unga bunga.
Aloha yeah?
-Manwell.