A second to early or a second too late is what your dealing with sometimes when catching waves.
Being at the right place and the right time. Some waves the margin of error is larger. Some waves there is no margin of error, where you must be spot on. Some boards will create that opportunity for error, however you might trade that for manueverablility. For instance a longer board will catch more waves, however you may not be able to turn it as radical.
However. with a shorter board that day and at that spot you may not catch any waves at all.
There is a right board for the right condition. And sometimes a condition that will allow for a variety of boards.
It works both waves. Ones choices are a dance or a gamble... or a recipe.
It's kind of like Mexian food sometimes. Your ingredients are beans, rice, tomato, onions, beef, or chicken and corn tortillas.
And you take these ingredients to take many differnet forms: Tacos, Burritos, Enchiladas, Chimichangas, Tostadas,
Some surfers think long boarding and short boarding and stand-up paddling boaring are separate, but they're not.d
They are all connected.
Take that a step further.
Surfing is no different than eating mexican food, Different choices, for a result of satisfying a hunger, a pleasure.
My ideas are scattered, but this is an attempt to attack the simplicity at hand.
Life is simple yet so hard to describe at times.
What angle to come at.
Well these writings are a literal practice like to be able to clearly define the secret to living life to your highest potential.
I want to surf.
I want a job.
I have to go where the waves are.
I go where the jobs are.
I like fast waves.
I like artistic jobs.
I surf where the fast waves form often.
I work where there are artistic jobs.
However the one thing that differs form life on land and surfing.
In surfing you have to wait for the waves to arise.
But on land, you can create the waves yourself with the help of others.
Waves of thought in the minds of others.
Sometimes perfect waves hit an area only once that year.
And sometimes they may not show up again for 2 more years or who knows when.
The more I surf the better I understand surfing waves and the ocean.
The more I write the better I understand how the waves of thought in the ocean in my mind.
The more I surf the better I can express myself on waves.
The more I write, the better I can express my thoughts.
The more I dance, the better I can move.
The more I surf, the better I surf.
The more I paint pictures, the better I can understand pictures.
The more I paint, the better I can understand color, shape, line, composition, narrating visually.
The more I surf, the better I understand surfing.
The more I work with people, the better I work with people.
The more I work, the better I work.
The more I love, the better I love.
The more I express my love, the better I express my love.
The more I spend time with friends, the better friends I have.
The more I breathe, the better I breathe.
The more I paint the better I paint.
The more time I spend with myself, the better I understand myself.
But watch out. there are exceptions. You will run into a time when this technique of thought will not work
in every situation. Just as one surfboard won't work for all waves.
(Woke up at 3+am coudn't sleep and had these ideas. So I jumped onto the computer to capture them.)\
Alot of words.But...
There is an ocean of thoughts with infinite waves.
The act of Surfing is an easy activity to peer into the truth of the universe because it is not processed in thought and decisions of others... and too many tools. It is one mind, one board, one wave, one moment. And the only moment you have to deal with is the moment at hand. There are very few variables to deal with. You, your board, and the wave.
Not a team of players, not a boss, a company, your office, computer, assistant, department., Just you a board and the wave.
This is why it is good to eat unprocessed food. Something closer to its original form.
If you can surf between all these... juggle all of your passions.
Balance them all... This is what you must keep in practice.
The more I balance, the better I can balance.
The more I juggle, the better I juggle.
But there comes a point where I can only juggle a certain number of elements my life.
One more too many and the whole juggle collapses. I drop all the balls.
I gotta watch closely how many things I try to juggle.
Myself. Wife. Kid. Surf, Skate, Create.Write. Speak. Business.
Its funny how peoples priorities differ.
What happens when I shift around my priorities.
Like put Business on top.
nahhh. that would be gross.
But hey how about different priority combination for different conditions.
Switch up the ingredients for different occassions.
We're not gonna eat tacos every night right.
hmmmm. To be continued.
No comments:
Post a Comment