YOU PLAY YOU PAY

Aloha,
droppin' words.
workin' hard these days.
Still finding time to surf and skate though and admire a plastic bag with red black and white graphics on it in a garbage can which gets me stoked to go home and paint. But before I pick up the paint brush I get stuck on the computer for an hour checkin' my e-mails and this facebook bullshit. Don't really like it, but I get to peep old friends that poke me or write on my wall. Yeah Yeah.

Trouble in Paradise.
but I'll survive.

the difference between skateing and surfing is that when you skate you sweat. and I like that factor.
it gets the toxins out of your body.

Surfing on the other hand is easier on the bones and skin. Except when you scrape the reef.
the smallest cut can sting or get infected. One connect to the reef can explode a knuckle and start pouring blood...
which intern brings the fear in you that you might be attracting some unwanted guests so you get so scared you feel like your gonna piss your board shorts but you don't because this only makes you stick out more. So you catch a wave in, in slight panic-mode wiping out so hard on your back as you drop in and you hear a snap only to find yourself underwater unsure if your paralyzed from the back/neck slap to the water. This happened to me once. I wiped out so hard I couldn't skate. and my arms were stinging even though I didn't hit my arms on the water. I think it was a nerve thing. For a moment underwater
I wasn't sure if I could move my limbs. The water was light blue and bubbly. And the waves were pretty big that day.

it was only me and a friend out.
last year at that same spot I saw a whale come out of the water within 100 yards. I was like wow, but at the same time a little freaked out. Deep water....Don't like to look down all the time... or even think what cruises beneath. Definitely plenty creatures for sure but anything over 10ft stay away please.

Aloha

YOU PLAY YOU PAY
THEY SAY.
Signing off.
MANZO