Honolulu Tsunami

False alarm. Went to the grocery store at 6am and spent $160+ on water and supplies....

Gonna return the water and canned supplies to get some of my money back.

The sirens put a serious vibe in the air.

I was prepared after being in NYC for 911 and the Black Out.

Had 6 friends come over.

We walked over to a neighboring building rooftop to see the tsunami hit,

but nothing ever came.

then we came back to my house to BBQ and drink beers.

Then went to Diamond Head to surf.

Caught some fun waves.

The Chile earthquake brought some juice.

Hope there's still waves tomorrow.

-Manny

Realization

Ok lets say you are the best skater in the world and get a million dollars a year to skate...

what are you gonna do when you get that million?

Help others and what?

Skate. Don't abandon the thing that got you to where you are.

tales of a Honolulu Homeboy

drinking beers and skating is alot more crucial than drinking beers and surfing.

in the former, you are paying with blood or broken bones.

Tales of a Honolulu Homeboy

It was a combination of no wind, a setting sun, over 10 years of surf and skate experience, and a little bit of magic that made Johnny surf the most stylish line he had ever drawn in his entire life. The fact that his friends were watching as they paddled back to the line-up didn't hurt. Johnny loved witnessing his homies catch good waves. But this time it was his time to shine. And shine he did. With his friends in the corner of his eye he caught the next wave and dropped in with a smile. He did the tic-tac shuffle across the wave and danced into a cutback to set himself up for another round with the lip. At first sight, it looked like Johnny was break-dancing on water.

All of his positive energy culminated on that one ride.It would be tough to get in any more turns on such a modest yet gorgeous wave...
He surfed with ease, speed, and grace... Aloha.

Dynamic Movement

The key to a youthful and alert spirit is dynamic movement
in both the Body and MInd. In the Body, movement beyond up and down and side to side, but all the diagonals to upside down.
In the mind... feeding it concepts
and filling it with humor and connecting thoughts from past, present moment, future, and
unknown.

Dynamic Movement will keep you healthy all around.
There are vehicles and tools for easy access to Dynamic Movement.
A skateboard put you in millions of spaces in one linear back to back moment.
Good rhythmic music is a great guide for the body to bounce to
for your body to dance
and great lyrics activate the mind even more
make your mind dance.

Dynamic Movement by any means necessary.

Dawn Patrol Drama

Wednesday Dawn Patrol Drama: Smacking Reef

Today I did my usual Wednesday Dawn Patrol"
Woke at 5:turtles.
left for North Shore at 6.
arrived 6:45.
Paddled out with John Esguerra.
Waves were beautiful yet kinda shitty.
caught two good waves.
It was like getting 6 seconds with a naked hot chick...
(I know that's some incriminating shit, especially cuz I'm married, but hey, I'm theoretically speaking)
Besides those two waves, I waited a lot.
I decided to sit inside closer to the impact zone and got caught inside a few times.
had to abandon ship and dive deep to avoid mini freak sets and heavy lips to the head.
not too big... but a little big for a townie.

Paddled back out a few more times.
and waited longer.
Until I decided to drop in no matter what on the next set.
I dropped into pretty much a close out and pearled (nose dived) and went flying to the bottom
of the transition and got sucked up and back over, then
got drilled straight to the bottom and smacked my knee on the reef.
I think it helped that I practiced holding my breath for almost a minute on the drive up.
Warmed up my lungs with hot tea and helped them stretch bigger for deeper breaths.

I wasn't sure if my knee exploded. It stung.
when I came up. I only saw a little blood thankfully,
blood next to the almost healed wound from the last time I hit reef on the same knee.
very minor scrape, but painful for this Filipino Pretty Boy.
Let's see if I can draw an accurate cartoon of my wipeout tonight.
til then.
-Mandog