White Water, Lips, and Curls: an elongated surf moment

I dropped into the wave and everything turned silent. The water was clear and I saw a stray piece of seaweed floating. Time slowed down as wave, actions, and desires melted together into one moment stretched. I dragged my hand in the curl and my face in the lip. The sun shined bright. Up and down the wave I went all the way to the inner reef stoked. I began to paddle back out only to get stuck inside. I was in the zone of white water, lips and curls. The white wash museum. As the outside sets came pounding, I relaxed safe inside and admired the infinite curvilinear forms and movements of white wash. As the sets subsided, I paddled back out and observed a similar wave to my last. I called it the, "Mini Nugget Super-Connector ". It peeled long and clean. The Mini Nugget Super-Connector comes hidden between Big Bullies. The cool guy slick wave. But that's another short story description I'll save for another time.
-Manny Aloha

Last Wednesday January 21, 2009

Surf Wednesday 1

Here's a little catch up.
Every Wednesday I surf on the best spot on the island of Oahu. I have a rental car from the evening before.
Always good to have a good vehicle to transport you.
so this Wednesday I surfed the west side at Maile Point.
I caught the biggest and longest rides of my life to day on an almost perfect day...
This photo doesn't do justice but it's what I got. The waves I was catching were less gnarly.
Maybe I'll tell the story later when I have time. The second photo is of the spot I usually surf a few miles south.

Its never too late to start

So here goes.
My first day as a bloggah.
Inspired by my great friend James.
Met him when I was probably 5 years old. He lived 5 houses down the street. We started riding big wheels together, then bikes, then skateboards; began making art together beginning with sketchbook drawing and ceramics, to painting, and graff... and lived together on and off for a few years in Brooklyn. I've never fought with anyone so many times and made up. Now we are separated by land and ocean, but still stay in contact. This Blog will keep our connection live. Along with my connection to the world. Right on James. You never fail to push me to create. I'll never forget being stoned off my ass laying on the floor at Utopia and you opening up my sketchbook in front of me with water colors. You put a paint brush in my hand and said paint and I did. My hand was so wobbly but that became the style. Brothers are always there to push each other. I love you Brother. And that's the last time I'll use the L word for a while as to not come off too soft. Here we go.
-Manny Aloha

Kimo Hollinger illustration for FreeSurf Magazine

Color Drawing on Surfboard at Surftech Honolulu

Latest Sight Specific Art Piece