Saturday, October 17, 2009

Thursday Morning


Yesterday Morning I surfed...
It was the glassiest day I surfed ever.
The Pacific Ocean was a flat lake with occassional shoulder high waves.
On the way I stopped at a red light and noticed a huge banner with Carissa Moore slashing a wave.
and I thought thats rad. Then I pull up to the spot I'm gonna surf and there she is running across the street to surf before school.
Out in the water she drops into a wave and does a backside 360 turn then does two slashes and finishes with a frontside 360 then pops off the wave to chat with her little 12 year old sister about what they're gonna wear for halloween.

I said go right. I'll go left. We split a wave.
A perfect glassy day surfing with one of the best little girl surfers on the planet.

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