Woke at 5 am
Made a cup of tea
stretched while water was heating
left with all things checked
Tea
two bananas
board shorts
surfboard
Pulled into the parking lot of surf spot
and arrived to a group still drinking and listening to
their friend play the ukulele and sing songs.
He was good.
It set the mood for my whole morning session,
wanted to give him my card
but I didn't want to lead him on like I was some recording guy
and fill his head with empty promises
so I just enjoyed the music and thought to myself...
I was that guy pulling all nighters twice a week just 4 years ago.
I felt good.
I don't think I could handle many more late night recoveries.
caught plenty of epic overhead waves.
super long rides and sometimes pulling into dry reef.
out of water by 9 30
quick stop to hardware store
home by 10:15
bowl of cereal
cut 4 skateboards
lunch
to Museum with Marisa and baby to meet some friends at 12:30
out by 2:30
Home for a nap til 4:30
Pack up dinner to meet friends for a Sunset at the Beach HIFF film by 5:30
back home by 9 ish
finish working on boards
in bed by 11:30
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