D Patrol Momentary Escape

Da surfa said, "Where's my zone? Where's my zone?" as the waves began to appear.
And as the perfect mini inside section formed he proceeded,
"Now that's what I'm talkin' about! MY ZONE!
as he snagged a free ride, and zoomed on to smack into the white watah soup!
then to shore to make it back to the 9-5
which is really the 9-6 or 9-7 or 9-8 or 9-11
Da Grind. and I aint talkin' eats.
Gotta Focus on the Hocus Pokus
Aloha Nui Loa
-Mandog Bautista Panglione De Honolulu
P.S Mo bettah to talk like dis sometimes.
Shaka!

The Sunday Recap Rundown

Woke at 5 am
Made a cup of tea
stretched while water was heating
left with all things checked
Tea
two bananas
board shorts
surfboard

Pulled into the parking lot of surf spot
and arrived to a group still drinking and listening to
their friend play the ukulele and sing songs.
He was good.
It set the mood for my whole morning session,
wanted to give him my card
but I didn't want to lead him on like I was some recording guy
and fill his head with empty promises
so I just enjoyed the music and thought to myself...
I was that guy pulling all nighters twice a week just 4 years ago.

I felt good.
I don't think I could handle many more late night recoveries.
caught plenty of epic overhead waves.
super long rides and sometimes pulling into dry reef.

out of water by 9 30
quick stop to hardware store
home by 10:15
bowl of cereal
cut 4 skateboards
lunch
to Museum with Marisa and baby to meet some friends at 12:30
out by 2:30
Home for a nap til 4:30
Pack up dinner to meet friends for a Sunset at the Beach HIFF film by 5:30
back home by 9 ish
finish working on boards
in bed by 11:30

Saturday Surf

Surf picked up for the weekend.
Just in time for all the nine to fivers
The Aloha Perks
Surf all around the island.
Surfed Castles with my friend Jon this moring.
I thought it was rad and "All time" Castles.
Jon had fun and said it was alright.
Interesting... different perceptions of the same moment.
Despite that, he was stoked to surf together.
Its always good to have a homie to witness you surfing
Jon caught me doin a head dip.
I caught Jon racing down the line.

Castles rarely breaks. And there is usually hardly anyone on it.
For a moment it was just the two of us.
before that just three uncles, Jon and I.

Plenty of waves were had.
Sunday morning session to come.

Thursday Morning

Yesterday Morning I surfed...
It was the glassiest day I surfed ever.
The Pacific Ocean was a flat lake with occassional shoulder high waves.
On the way I stopped at a red light and noticed a huge banner with Carissa Moore slashing a wave.
and I thought thats rad. Then I pull up to the spot I'm gonna surf and there she is running across the street to surf before school.
Out in the water she drops into a wave and does a backside 360 turn then does two slashes and finishes with a frontside 360 then pops off the wave to chat with her little 12 year old sister about what they're gonna wear for halloween.

I said go right. I'll go left. We split a wave.
A perfect glassy day surfing with one of the best little girl surfers on the planet.

WAVE CONSTRUCTION

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