Wednesday Dawn Patrol Report

Woke up at 5:15 am
Out the door 5:45
Arrive at North shore at 6:30
To meet up with John Esquerra.
Ehukai Beach Park was windy and kind of all over the place...
So we dedided to go west a little.

There was an East Swell with East winds
which made for side shore at NS.

We decided to surf Jockos.
There was a heavy rip current taking you out to sea.
If you floated around too long, you found the houses got smaller.
I was stoked to catch a couple of waves with my 6'2" 20 1/2"W and 2 5/8" twin fin with brand new fins.
The board floated alot better that my 6'5" Tokoro thruster.

My twin felt like surfing on oil it was so slippery.
My board felt like a slut...
all loose and easy.
It did whatever I wanted it too and enjoyed it.

Soon John paddled in sick of fighting the current.

I was getting sucked out trying to catch one in.

As I was paddling in, I here, "Hey Dude! Hey Dude!" this one guy says.
Its just him, some knee boarder, and me out there.

"Whats up" I said.

"How do you paddle in here?" he asked.

"Straight in. There's just a heavy rip right now so you gotta catch a wave in" I say.
"
"I'm having bad asthma right now."

"Ok" I said, "Just relax. Don't freak out."

"I'm freaking out" he said.
"Can you do me a favor and just sit here with me for a minute?"

"I say ok" knowing if we sit too long, we'll just have to paddle further in.

So I coach him to keep paddling, and then eventually a wave comes my way and I say go for this one
Go, Go!"

He makes it far enough in to make it out of the rip.
Of course I get stuck in it for a whille longer.
See the small far away guy on shore see me then walk off the beach to his car.

I think to myself, "Hey, thanks huh?"

I manage to paddle in about 20-25 minutes after John who's gotta go to work by 10am like me and its probably well pass 9 by now. He was almost pissed, until I told him that I had to coach in some dude.

He laughed and shared a big jug of warm water for a shower.

Caught some fun ones in the mess.

Lesson Learned: When there is an East swell with east winds, Stay home with your chick, work on some art, or go to Makaha on the West Side.

Das all.
-Manny Aloha