I'm sure everyone in living in Honolulu Hawaii has their romantic story of the best sunset or love moment... I sure as hell do... intimate surf moments when I got sexual with waves. Memories always have a tendency to be emotionally magnified.
There is my favorite surf spot on the south side of oahu called... well i'm not going to tell you the name of the spot directly, but lets just say its name means "to kill yourself" and most people call it" Sooeez. Well at this surf spot I hands down get the longest rides, best lip cracks, and cut backs with ease. This is also the spot that I have heard of the most shark sightings... dorsal fin sitings that is.
The name of the spot right next to it means "the place where people are buried". Sorry I really don't want to ruin my favorite spots, but I'm pretty much telling you. If you can't figure it out you aint sherlock holmes enough. At this "cousin' spot" we call the sauce you put on mash potatoes, "Gravies", about a hunderd yards away, from "Sooeez" my good friend Ethan who is a super stylish surfer and skater... probably the most stylish on the island of oahu...
this ill and noble friend of mine saw a shark behind me as I heard it thrash a splash.
Back to Sooeez though this wave is a sexy young lady with boomin' curves.
She's got Mouth watering juice. My magic moments at "Sooeez" are dropping in on a set wave... about a 10 ft face, ... that's 3 ft Hawaiian scale and just riding it and carving it all calm...another time getting barrelled on a mini head high wave. but the best moment I remember was doing a solid floater and the lip breaking sending me back down the face even faster than I was already going..
Plus all my favorite friends surf these two spots.
its like a party out there...
better than a barbeque because no one's gotta clean up.
Aloha Everyone.
Signing off.
Manny Skate DA Surfa Artist.
BREWSKI SKRIPTURES
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