When surfin North Shore there's been a few times when I said to myself, "I could die right now if I stopped tryin' to keep my head above water". Some surfers say that when your gettin' tossed and held under, you just relax... well at some point after relaxin' you gotta swim and try to get yourself outta there, or somewhere not underwater. Which means trying with all your might to hold whatever breath you have left and swim to the surface.
It was kind of interesting to feel that experience, that I could die if I wanted too.
I guess I wanna live.
Being on land is a lot more confusing to me than being in the water. Because when you're surfin' its all about having fun and wanting to live... Land is a lot more complicated.
well on another note, ABOVE is one friend on land that I hang with and that I surf, skate, and create with. His name is Ethan Lau. I will probably have some stories to tell you about him later.
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