Reminder

what I want to remember to write about.

1) the day I surfed Pipeline and watched Jamie O'brien drop in slow-mo and disappear only to re emerge cracking the lip.

2) the day I met Jeff Pang and the first day I slept over his house.

3) the day I surfed Rockaway with Colin after the windiest morning and catching the best session just the two of us
and catching waves all the way to the sand.

4)Surfing the Rockaway Box with Jimmy Gallagher. The day it was a shoulder high wave machine and us riding the conveyer belt all to ourselves for and hour and him yelling from the inside "that was probably the best wave of your life!"
5) the first time I surfed what I thought was the the Banzai Pipeline with Chris Cesca. It was only like Chris's third time surfing and he shouldn't have been out. He went over the falls on an overhead wave... into like knee high water and I thought he broke his neck like he almost did when he got pile driven by a kid named Jamie VanDunk in 6th grade. A few seconds later I found him emerging from under water with a smile on his face... He tried to drop in before me and this compelled me to drop into the steepest waves I dropped into yet. Everyone that surrounded us thought and knew he was stupid and risked his physical health...
but I got stoked off his big balls and I mean guts to you homo jokesters. That day I caught three rad waves back to back on my 8'0" which to me was my short board. I was trimming down from a 9'0".

6)Surfing bowls with Ben Aipa

7) figuring out that the nicest uncle to me at Ala Moana Bowls besides the twin Aunties is Uncle Clyde Aikau...
Eddie Aikau's younger brother.

8)watching a 40 plus year old crack the lip upside down past vertical and making it look like a kick turn past vert on a skateboard only much gnarlier... and later seeing him in a magazine named Mike Akima...

thats it for now...
these stories I want to embelish on at a later date.. when I have more time.