Rice Bowls

Some were saying 10ft. Hawaiian. I say something more like 4-6ft with an occasional 8ft set...
Sick waves heaving. Barreling....12-18ft faces.
Some waves I let go by... chickened out.
Today I surfed Rice Bowls for the first time.
One of the best high performance waves on the south shore.

It's a gorgeous wave with beautiful curves...
Steep and fast.
The kind of wave that works to hand your ass back to you on a plate...
wants to gobble you up.

But I caught some fun ones.
Some cutbacks
a layback...
a little shelter
a lip smack to the face but made it through.

I had a freak incident at one moment when I got stuck inside.
A wave took me out and my leash wrapped around both of my feet together.
I couldn't kick to the surface.
My board was getting dragged with great force strangling my feet by the ankles.

10 seconds later the wave let up and the leash relaxed enough to break free.
A little freaky for a moment.
Later in the evening no one in the line up was sharing waves.

like cutting the line.
and I got stuck pretty late out there in the dark.

Biggest and best South Shore waves I ever caught in yet.
If I can make it out early enough.
I'll paddle out with a bigger board.... 6'6"?
Good times,
Aloha.