Tokyo Flashback

Cruising through Tokyo Part 1 from unclefunkys on Vimeo.

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More Style Sessions II from unclefunkys on Vimeo.

Fathers Day: Solitude in Ding Repair

sol·i·tude
1. The state or quality of being alone or remote from others.

During moments of solitude, I can relax my mind from my weekday routines. Weekday brain patterns.
I tend to pack in so much during the week. My mind on go twenty four-seven.

I've been known to be the guy to wax poetic or be a little too nostalgic, but I don't give a shit.
These are the moments when I kick back and appreciate life. When times get a little rough and I got 11 dollars in the bank,
I just kick back and dig into the archives of my memory and find one of the many fulfilling moments I've had.

A lot of the time we just eat up life and just keep on eating. Sometimes we gotta give thanks.
During moments of solitude I can find the time to do so.

Today I received my first Fathers Day card from my lady Marisa and my unborn baby yet with no name.
Any one out there have a good name, Please drop a comment.

At first I was thinking Ocean. I try to imagine being at a playground and yelling "Ocean! Time to go."
Wifey Marisa likes Nico. I'm also thinking Ethan.

Woke up with a pretty bad hang over.
Yesterday I kicked it with my bro Rob Duncan. We watched Roller Derby at 5pm and then went to the local bar Anna Bannanas
for the after party and ended up staying til 1am I think. then went back to Rob's and he fed me a salad and an enchilada until I fell asleep on his couch as he was telling me some deep shit. Felt bad about that, but heck, I don't drink as much these days
and we threw back about four pitchers worth of beers.

So I woke up pretty bent.
Met up with Marisa during her break to dip into the Ocean.
Then a visit to Uncle Ethan Valeting at Tokurrei Tei.
He hooked me up with 3 fat avocados.
Ethan is the fruit hook up master.

Thank God for Fathers Day and Marisa so extra sweet.
Like a get out of jail free card, she let me off the hook.
So its 8pm Marisa works til 10pm and I'm doing Ding repair and writing the blog.
Both activities of precious solitude.
Til next time.
Aloha.

Cruising in My Neighborhood

Rice Bowls

Some were saying 10ft. Hawaiian. I say something more like 4-6ft with an occasional 8ft set...
Sick waves heaving. Barreling....12-18ft faces.
Some waves I let go by... chickened out.
Today I surfed Rice Bowls for the first time.
One of the best high performance waves on the south shore.

It's a gorgeous wave with beautiful curves...
Steep and fast.
The kind of wave that works to hand your ass back to you on a plate...
wants to gobble you up.

But I caught some fun ones.
Some cutbacks
a layback...
a little shelter
a lip smack to the face but made it through.

I had a freak incident at one moment when I got stuck inside.
A wave took me out and my leash wrapped around both of my feet together.
I couldn't kick to the surface.
My board was getting dragged with great force strangling my feet by the ankles.

10 seconds later the wave let up and the leash relaxed enough to break free.
A little freaky for a moment.
Later in the evening no one in the line up was sharing waves.

like cutting the line.
and I got stuck pretty late out there in the dark.

Biggest and best South Shore waves I ever caught in yet.
If I can make it out early enough.
I'll paddle out with a bigger board.... 6'6"?
Good times,
Aloha.

Garage skate therapy

A little bit goes a long way.