Super Aloha Friday Off

Been workin' the 9-5 like most.
and gettin' back pains from sittin' at the computer too long
and not stretching enough.
Stretching is essential.

But my back still works and the Honolulu Weekly gave the company Friday off.
in replace of having to work on last week's Good Friday.

So there just happened to be a dying swell on the North Shore with 8-10 ft faces.
Thats 2-4 ft.Hawaiian. Perfect Rippable waves. Almost harmless.
And practically no wind all day. So I took my sweet time getting up to the NS arriving at 10 am
and getting out of the water at 2pm.

My face and back feel a little crispy.

At first it was crowded. I was on a wave and in one instant a long board from some lady comes over the falls,
and wacks me as I'm coming down the line which knocks me off my board into some older man on the inside.
His eyeballs were all big as I dove off my board controlling my wipeout as much as possible.

I heard boards collide and my knee hit something hard.

Our boards and leashes got intertwined.

My board was ok. without dings.
No one appeared to be hurt.

Old man paddles in.
I paddle back to lineup to find my knee slightly bleeding with a small gash.

Kept my eyes open for sharks.
The water was super clear today.
I didn't feel them around. and saw that my knee wasn't bleeding too hard.

That was about 10:30
I stuck it out and caught one of the best sessions all year yet.
Perfect waves pealing in the sun.

by 12 noon most everyone paddled in.
and I surfed with 2 others for two hours.
I'd catch a perfect wave all the way in and paddle back nearly exhausted and another wave would
be coming ready to be ridden.
I'd be like oh shit. Here we go again.
I repeated this over and over again until I couldn't handle it anymore and caught one more right to the shore.

Then back to town to meet up with John Esguerra at 5pm to talk art and business then pick up Marisa at work by 6pm.

John and I got stoked on a project.
Marisa and I watched the sunset over the ocean at Waikiki near her work...
The sky changed from yellow and blue and purple to orange and hot pink.
The best part of a sunset is after it sets. Thats when the sky's color go wild.

Then we watched the Waikiki Friday fireworks.
Grocery store, Dinner, and bed.
I feel good.
No beers today.
Aloha and good night.