Monday, May 17, 2010

Roll Skateboards Sidewalk Surf.mov

Saturday one on one

My favorite surf break gives it up to a lot of dudes
including me.
But this saturday I had her all to myself
and she got friskier than I expected.
No one was around to see, but me.
She layed it all out and let me do whatever I want.
I am happy to say that I got to smack the lip.
and I surfed without a leash...
feel more free.
I was stoked
Surfed till I was worn out.
But the waves kept coming.
I had to eventually paddle in to my wife and kid.
Good times.

Thursday, April 22, 2010

Wednesday Dawn Patrol Report

This morning went for usual Wednesday early surf sesh.
6am pulled up to Diamond Head.
Not many people out... Maybe 4 guys.
Kinda shitty conditions.
Was about to go home and get creative, but Uncle Eddie
pulled up. I said I'll paddle out if you paddle out.

He said I'm going just for an hour.
I gotta try my new board.

We paddled out to Light House.
It was just him and I.
No one came out... from beginning to end.

We caught some fun ones.
I caught a good one and screamed like a girl.
It was worth it....
We talked about having a wife and family...
He's been married for 25 years and has 3 kids.
a 25 year old, 19, and 17.
He said he gave his wife plenty of reasons to leave him, but
"She believed in me"
Every time I see Eddie, he's got a new board and is trying to sell one...
I just noticed that.