Honolulu Tsunami

False alarm. Went to the grocery store at 6am and spent $160+ on water and supplies....

Gonna return the water and canned supplies to get some of my money back.

The sirens put a serious vibe in the air.

I was prepared after being in NYC for 911 and the Black Out.

Had 6 friends come over.

We walked over to a neighboring building rooftop to see the tsunami hit,

but nothing ever came.

then we came back to my house to BBQ and drink beers.

Then went to Diamond Head to surf.

Caught some fun waves.

The Chile earthquake brought some juice.

Hope there's still waves tomorrow.

-Manny

Realization

Ok lets say you are the best skater in the world and get a million dollars a year to skate...

what are you gonna do when you get that million?

Help others and what?

Skate. Don't abandon the thing that got you to where you are.

tales of a Honolulu Homeboy

drinking beers and skating is alot more crucial than drinking beers and surfing.

in the former, you are paying with blood or broken bones.

Tales of a Honolulu Homeboy

It was a combination of no wind, a setting sun, over 10 years of surf and skate experience, and a little bit of magic that made Johnny surf the most stylish line he had ever drawn in his entire life. The fact that his friends were watching as they paddled back to the line-up didn't hurt. Johnny loved witnessing his homies catch good waves. But this time it was his time to shine. And shine he did. With his friends in the corner of his eye he caught the next wave and dropped in with a smile. He did the tic-tac shuffle across the wave and danced into a cutback to set himself up for another round with the lip. At first sight, it looked like Johnny was break-dancing on water.

All of his positive energy culminated on that one ride.It would be tough to get in any more turns on such a modest yet gorgeous wave...
He surfed with ease, speed, and grace... Aloha.