Surfs up on the south side of Oahu and on the south side of all the Hawaiian Islands.
This last thursday I went to work and there was no editorial content for me to drop into the paper.
So they told me to go smoke a joint. I said well I don't smoke anymore... Maybe I should go surf instead.
And the editor was like yeah go surf. So I went to one of my favorite spots, Ala Moana Bowls.
I am reading a great book right now called Surf is Where You Find It, written by Gerry Lopez, Pipeline Style Master. These are some excerpts about Ala Moana Bowls. "Still the waves dearest to our hearts was always Ala Moana..." "the only place to be during the summertime south swell season was Ala Moana." "Ala Moana drew the best of Hawai‘i's small-wave surfers and made them better.
Ala Moana is two miles down the street from my home.
I go there often to show my face in the line up.
the wave has such good form.
And you get along better with the family if you spend time.
Its worth it.
During my surf break, pro surfer Makua Rothman was in the water, Sunset Beach Triple Crown winner.
Fun to surf with a pro, and see that he has to paddle hard too sometimes.
One thing I noticed about him was that he was a wave magnet.
There is a lot of people in the line up... about 14 people sitting close to each other... everyone advanced and able to catch any wave that comes their way, beautiful waves just seemed to roll right up to Makua... and had his and only his name on it.
Pretty interesting.
Anyway, caught some great waves and went to work.
Had to tame my stoke in fear of making people jealous of the joy that coursed through my veins and mind.
Will try to get some photos up of some south shore dakine.
Till then, time to draw some lines on wood and cut out some skateboard shapes.
Aloha Nui,
Manuel Dasurf Skateowitz
