Stay Light

Sunday, January 9, 2011

Back from the mainland

Back from the mainland and home to Hawaii.
Feels good to be back.

Got back Sunday Night.

Monday unpacked and went to our favorite beach and swam.

Tuesday went camping on North Shore with Luke and Sarah.
Surfed a secret spot with Luke.
Over head and glassy.
My first wave I drop in on Sunny Garcia and watched him crank a bottom turn
as I ejected off the top.
A beautiful session till sunset.
Then Poki and rice from Kahuku Superette and a twelve pack of Coronas.

Campfire and a walk under the stars along the beach.

Wednesday morning walk along the beach,
bacon, egg and cheese breakfast at Ted's Bakery
A stop to the NS Skatepark for a 45minute session
then straight to Puena Point.
Waves were 10-12ft, so Puena was the safe spot.
then Margaritas and dinner at Cholos
then home.

Thursday skate?
Friday- Sold shades in chinatown First Friday

Saturday woke, cleaned the house Skated and Surfed Diamond Head
Sunday went to Baby Makapuu and hung with Hayden and Surfed.
then watched the sunset at Kaimana Beach.
Now home for Dinner.

Monday- time to apply for jobs and work on art.

One thing I've been thinking;
As an artist, you make a statement and put yourself up for criticism.
You put in your ideas to the pot to inspire the community.
whether good or bad.

Monday, May 17, 2010

Roll Skateboards Sidewalk Surf.mov

Saturday one on one

My favorite surf break gives it up to a lot of dudes
including me.
But this saturday I had her all to myself
and she got friskier than I expected.
No one was around to see, but me.
She layed it all out and let me do whatever I want.
I am happy to say that I got to smack the lip.
and I surfed without a leash...
feel more free.
I was stoked
Surfed till I was worn out.
But the waves kept coming.
I had to eventually paddle in to my wife and kid.
Good times.